28 September 2003

:: travelogue, with pictures

OK, here we go. I've done tiny version of the pictures to speed things up: click on the image to see a larger version. If you would like a super-size of anything, Chris (or a copy of a pic you know I took and don't see here), let me know.



Paris!! Hurrah!


First of all, the flat, which was perfect. It was in Saint Germain-des-Pres, a very arty area just across the Seine from the Louvre.
It faced into a courtyard, so it was nice and quiet. You could get to the courtyard from two streets, both of which were thick with art galleries.
The whole area was lively and interesting. Here's the man doing his card tricks:



On the first day Chris and I "did" Montmartre: Sacre Coeur, the Montmartre cemetery, Moulin Rouge and all points between. Pictures: Lots of lovely little cafes.




And a whole street of fabric shops. Here, a belly-dancer picks out a new outfit.


The cemetery was fascinating.



This was a mystery grave: brand new, obviously, and the name was Depardieu. A member of the actor's family? No idea.


A lot of the tombs have fallen into disrepair, but still have beautiful mosaics inside.



Yes, the Moulin Rouge is a real place.


Sacre Coeur, which you'll be seeing a bit of. It's particularly lovely against a strong blue sky.


At the bottom of the hill is another Paris landmark: Tati, the Paris equivalent of Warehouse or Poundstretcher. One great huge bargain bin. We didn't buy anything: I was scared of being electrocuted, there was so much nylon in there. However, Chris found some fantastic shoes:




Speaking of shopping, Chris had a thrill when she found the very handbag she'd bought in Tuscany on sale for twice the price in a shop just down the road from the flat:

Weirdly enough, shortly before leaving for Paris I was gripped by a strong urge to buy a red handbag. We loved our bags -- Chris decided we were "Les Soeures du Sac a Main Rouge".


Versailles:



First of all: it's huge. The palace is huge, the grounds are vast. The scale of everything is overwhelming: the number of staff in its heyday, the cost of restoration, the amount of gilt, the number of paintings, everything. I kept imagining how it must have all seemed to the sans-culottes during the Revolution: they were just asking for enough bread to stay alive, and here was the king, living in unimaginable splendour.

Second: It was hot. Really hot. I'd like to go back and walk around the grounds on a cooler day. As it was we were too knackered to go to the Petit Trianon. We did see the Grand Trianon, though the place with the pretty pink columns. You could hire row-boats and go for a burl round the Grand Canal, which would be nice.



We were just too tired. Really.

Next day, we hit the Pompidou Centre.



In the first picture you can just see Chris walking off down the corridor -- the escalators are all on the outside of the building in perspex tubes -- and Sacre Coeur on the left. We saw a photographic exhibition (Jacques Lartigue), then broke for lunch before seeing one floor of the permanent exhibition. After that we went out and scoured the streets for a padded envelope before returning with just enough time to visit the last floor before closing time. The second picture is of two Miro paintings (my favourite artist) and the third is me in a room-sized artwork, whose creator's name I've forgotten. Loved it, though!

The envelope was for Chris to send her films off to NZ to avoid taking them through airport X-ray machines. It's amazing how difficult it is to find seemingly ordinary things in a strange city. We finally found one in the BHV department store: we had barely five minutes to search a five-storey building!



At some point, I forget exactly when, we visited Sainte Chapelle, an astounding church tucked away amid the courts of justice. It was built about 900 years ago to house the Crown of Thorns, which the king had bought along with a load of other relics, including a piece of the True Cross. Woo! All that disappeared during the Revolution, and the church was damaged, but it's still amazing. It had the most beautiful windows, mainly in shades of red and blue, and the walls and columns etc are gorgeous rich deep colours with lots of gilt. No flash, of course, so almost impossible to photograph, but I had a go:




The next morning Chris left for London. I decided a good way to get around for a couple of days was the Batobus, a service that does a circular route on the Seine all day, with eight stops. You can get on and off the boat as many times as you like.
My first stop was the Musee d'Orsay, just upriver from St-Germain-des-Pres. To get there I sailed downriver to the Jardin des Plantes, then all the way back up the river to the Eiffel Tower, then back down again. Tremendous way to travel, most relaxing!


There was also a lot to see on the river, like the wonderful houseboats lining the quays, the elaborate bateaux mouches powering up and down, the working barges, and ahem, the firefighters, Pompiers de Paris. Ooooh er! What's the French for "hose me down, I'm on fire"?


So, Musee d'Orsay. This was my favourite art gallery, an old railway station whose platforms were too narrow for modern trains. It's a wonderful building, it must have been amazing to arrive there. But it's also a brilliant gallery, with all kinds of little architectural surprises, like a balcony with stunning views. Of Sacre Coeur, natch.





I thought this statue was the gayest thing in Paris. Pan playing with little bears. Totally gay.



I stopped off at Notre Dame de Paris, as one does, but it was horrible. There was a service in progress, but that didn't stop the mobs of gawping tourists taking flash photos and yattering on their constantly ringing phones. I swear people were more respectful at the Eiffel Tower! At all the other churches they had minders shushing visitors and telling them off for flash photography, but at Notre Dame they seemed to have given up. Lovely building though.


The other big number of my to-do list was the Eiffel Tower. The queue was mind-boggling -- first you queued for a ticket, then you queued for a lift to the second level, then you queued for a lift to the top. I was going to walk up to the second level but ... you guessed it, it was too hot and I was tired.






The views were fab, truly stunning and worth all the queuing. I love that kind of Mechano-set construction, it's like the Forth Bridge. At night, at about 8pm, the tower is lit up like a sparkler. I made sure I was on a boat cruising past -- it was tacky but totally magical.

25 September 2003

:: vanishing point

Argh: I'd done a long description of our trip to Versailles, with lots of links and everything ... and managed to lose the lot. Damn damn damn.

Anyway, apologies for the delay in finishing the Paris travelogue: I haven't got the pictures on to the internet yet, maybe at the weekend. Time's flying by. I was going to finish the words at least but ... see above. Maybe at the weekend.

16 September 2003

:: bonjour, tout le monde!!

Well here I am in Paris, in an internet cafe with Chris (Cessford). I arrived yesterday, but Chris and her boyfriend Julian have been here over the weekend -- they stayed in a hotel for a couple of nights, then we all met up in the apartment (Rive Gauche, just across the Seine from the Louvre) yesterday afternoon. Julian went off to London on the Eurostar this morning, and Chris leaves on Friday morning. I'm staying on to Sunday morning!

Last night we found a nice little bistro for dinner (steak, mmmm) and then wandered the streets. We found a wonderful man doing slick card tricks and watched him for half an hour, he was excellent. This morning Chris went down to the local patisserie for our breakfast -- croissants and these amazing things called palmiers --- hard to describe, but I'll take pictures and post them later on. Deeeeeelicious, and obviously not fattening, because all Parisian women are thin as rakes.

Today Chris and I "did" Montmartre: Sacre Coeur, Cimetiere Montmartre, Moulin Rouge and all points between. Great, and not too crowded. The cemetery was fascinating. Did you know that Degas' family name is actually de Gas? I didn't. The whole area is fascinating though -- we took a look at Tati, the Paris equivalent of the Warehouse, and found several streets devoted to fabric shops and haberdashery. We had a pitstop for lunch (even the filled rolls are lovely in Paris) and another for a cold drink (citron presse -- fresh squeezed lemon which you add sugar to), then got the metro back to the flat for a lie-down.

Now we're catching up with the world before finding another little bistro for our dinner. Tomorrow we're going to Versailles, and the day after that the Pompidou Centre and the Louvre.

I've left all my email details at the flat, so I'll catch up on my email another day -- lots of love to everyone!!

9 September 2003

:: The Holiday, part one

First of all we went to the farm, which was great, as always. Bertie flushed out a couple of hares on his first excursion - whee! He might have caught them if they weren't so clever and he wasn't so out of condition. Andrew is in the throes of renovating his new home -- it had rot downstairs, so all the floorboards and joists had to come out. The wood expert was there ripping it all up, so I spent quite a bit of time helping Andrew cart rotten wood to the bonfire site. We also went for two great long walks (one up on the moors and another at the seaside near Nairn) and mowed the (very large) lawn at his aunt and uncle's cottage. Another highlight was feeding the little calf they're hand-rearing. It was a twin and the cow didn't think she could be bothered to bring them both up. She's a tiny skinny little thing, but is thriving.

Here are some photos:


John feeds the wee calf


Me patting the calf -- it was butting me quite hard, looking for milk.


John and Andrew in the kitchen of Andrew's new house -- "The Aga's going over there..."


Something nasty found under the floorboards. The floor had been laid directly on to the earth.


Bertie was confused by the earth floor: "Are we inside or outside?" Later he decided it was outside and had a pee. Oops...


The new/old house from the outside. It had been divided into flats and rented out, but now Andrew's making it a house again. It's going to be lovely -- fantastic views of the Moray Firth.

On Friday I loaded up the car and Bertie and I headed for Royal Deeside, to do some hillwalking. There was a slight hitch to my plans, in that it turned out the Balmoral Games were being held at the weekend, so all the accommodation was booked up. We had to stay in Tomintoul, the other side of the Lecht pass from Deeside.


This was one of the B&Bs we stayed at -- a wonderful farm tucked away in the hills. We had a family room with TV and private bathroom. Great place. Bertie blotted his copybook by trying to kill the cat, but later on suffered the humiliation of being chased by the puppy. Working dogs, hard as nails!


A spring on the path around Loch Muick (pronounced Mick).


Loch Muick


Ditto. That's Queen Victoria's Highland hideaway in amongst the trees, a nice solid stone house right on the lochside.


Lots of water for a thirsty dog. It was a beautiful day.


The next day was tougher: we went up Lochnagar. This is the view from near the ridge, on our way back down. The carpark is far, far in the distance.


Lochnagar. The summit is behind the cliffs -- you had to clamber up a steep slope and work your way round the clifftops. I was too knackered, and so was Bertie. We had a picnic by the loch and then headed back.

Then we came home!! I'll write more later on -- right now I've got to get to the supermarket, my cupboards are bare. Sarah is still here -- she went to a photography course on Skye and stopped off for a few days on her way back south. She's a great guest, it's a pleasure to have her to stay.