And then, as we drove on, the most amazing thing hove into view: a golf course, somehow carved out of a steep slope, with stunning views across the deep valley to distant hills and mountains. I didn't manage to get any photos, and we didn't pass it again, but there are some photos here that give you an idea.
We went straight to a monastery, the Zong Dog Palri Fo-Brang Gompa, also known as the Durpin monastery. It was perched on the top of a hill, with wonderful views of Kalimpong rather marred by a forest of phone masts. Everyone in India seems to have a mobile phone, even monks!
We were allowed to take photos in the temple, a rare privilege.
As you can see, it was gleaming clean and furnished with padded benches for the monks. As an even bigger treat, we were then when prayers began. I took a little film from outside to capture the beautiful chanting.
And so back to the hotel, the Silver Oaks. Here's Merle on the wonderful terrace.
There was a famous TV guru staying there too - I was too shy to take his photo or even gawp, but he was a classic guru: long flowing hair, long flowing white robes, stately progress through the hotel to the terrace, entourage trailing behind, and then holding forth rather pompously while the acolytes hung on his every word. There was a film crew with him as well.
After lunch in the splendid dining room we were off again to yet another monastery, Tongsa Gompa, the oldest in Kalimpong, built by the Bhutanese in 1692 but razed by the Gurkhas and rebuilt in 1922. Very beautiful paintings here. It's the base of yet another reincarnated lama, this time a 10-year-old who lives in Nepal. The altar was decorated with the most delicate and colourful butter sculptures, along with bowls of biscuits, bread, fruit and puffed rice. People bring the food as offerings; it's blessed by the monks, who can then eat it. A couple came in for a blessing while we were there, and then nibbled on some of the food that had been blessed as well. Afterwards we saw them outside spinning the prayer wheels. The atmosphere was really nice, relaxed but respectful.
The next stop was quite bizarre: St Theresa's, a Catholic church designed as a gompa. The walls were painted with the stations of the cross done in Buddhist style, with Jesus in saffron robes and his mother sitting on a lotus blossom. Sadly the paintings were crudely done, so the effect was weird and ugly.
The absolute highlight of the day was the market. I had thought Gangtok's market was special, but this was even better. It runs down a street that widens out into a large covered area. You could get anything there your heart desired, I'm sure. There were clothes stalls with a sewing machine handy in case you needed alterations; hardware and kitchenware stalls; fruit and veg galore; a butcher and a fishmonger; spices and tea; jewellery and beauty products. And all in a relaxed, friendly, cheerful atmosphere. I could have stayed all day.
I noticed something there I'd seen in Darjeeling as well - the water system. Everyone seems to have their own individual pipe, rather than sharing a common mains supply. Must make for some interesting days for the plumber...
Which reminds me of another thing: I never came across any nasty smells in these hill towns. Food scraps are often left in the gutter, to be disposed of quickly and efficiently by the dogs. The toilets are pretty primitive by our lofty standards, but again, no smell, no reek of drains or sewage. It all felt very clean and healthy. Some of the party were squeamish but I felt very relaxed about hygiene - I even drank tap water, crazy reckless fool that I am!
We walked back to the hotel from the market, enjoying the relaxed vibe of the town. No-one seemed in a hurry; even when jaywalking across the main street they're ambling.
Dinner was a very nice buffet meal, after which I caught up with some much-needed sleep in anticipation of an early start.
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